Exploring Baden-Baden, Germany: Two-Day Itinerary in the Black Forest π©πͺ
Trinkhalle (Pump Room)
This summer, we finally made it to Baden-Baden, the elegant spa town tucked into Germanyβs Black Forest.
Weβd heard the hype for years β the healing thermal waters, the fancy casino, the peaceful parks β and it lived up to every bit of it.
Baden-Baden is that rare place where you can start your morning on a forested trail, spend your afternoon in a centuries-old thermal bath, and end the night sipping wine under chandeliers at one of Europeβs most beautiful casinos. Now thatβs balance.
If youβre planning a trip to the Black Forest, hereβs everything we did (and loved) during our two unforgettable days in Baden-Baden.
Lichtentaler Allee
Q U IC K G U I D E
Where Is Baden-Baden and Why Visit?
π Location: Southwestern Germany, near the French border, on the edge of the Black Forest.
β¨ Why Visit:
Relax in world-famous thermal spas like Caracalla Therme and Friedrichsbad
Try your luck (or just admire the opulence) at Casino Baden-Baden
Stroll through the Old Townβs cafΓ©s and boutiques
Wander the Lichtentaler Allee, a riverside park perfect for slow mornings
π Getting There:
By Train: Under 2 hours from Frankfurt. Taxi to town (~β¬30) or bus (β¬6 day pass).
By Car: Ideal for scenic drives through the Black Forest and nearby villages.
πΆ Costs:
Slightly pricey but worth it β think affordable luxury.
Spa sessions start around β¬23 for 2 hours at Caracalla Spa.
π How Long to Stay:
2β5 days is perfect to explore, relax, and unwind.
π What to Pack:
Swimsuit (youβll need it!)
Comfortable shoes for walking and hiking
W H E R E T O S T A Y I N B A D E N B A D E N
Street in Baden Baden
π° Luxury: Maison Messmer β Elegant 5βstar hotel with spa, central location near Kurpark and Old Town.
π‘ MidβRange: Hotel Beek by Anna β Comfortable 3βstar, great value, walking distance to spas and the Old Town.
π° Budget: Maria-Viktoria Apartment
Cosy Apartment near city centre fully furnished, perfect for travellers on a budget.
D A Y 1 I N B A D E N B A D E N : History, Nature & Casino Nights
Morning: Arrival & Check-In
We arrived just before noon and checked into our apartment, about 400 meters from the town center.
For β¬130 a night, it was modern, spacious, and came with a full kitchen β perfect for prepping snacks for our hikes.
Outside Baden Baden Train Station
Lunch in the Old Town
First stop? Food. We headed to Bickeler Confiserie und Kaffeehausebetriebe, a cozy cafΓ© that won us over instantly.
Their sandwiches were delicious, the cakes were divine, and sitting outdoors surrounded by pastel buildings.
There are several great lunch options nearby; this spot sits right in the town centre and is easy to find.
Lunch at Bickeler Confiserie und Kaffeehausebetriebe
Afternoon: Walk Through History and Greenery
After lunch, we wandered over to the Trinkhalle (Pump Room) β a 19th-century architectural gem with frescoed walls and towering columns.
Trinkhalle (Pump Room)
Inside Trinkhalle (Pump Room)
From there, we strolled through Lichtentaler Allee, a peaceful park lined with trees, flowers, and little bridges that look straight out of a storybook.
Lichtentaler Allee Shalow River
Inside GΓΆnneranlage - Rose Garden
We also stopped by GΓΆnneranlage, a rose garden that smelled incredible and was bursting with color.
Rose Garden, Baden Baden
Evening: Casino Baden-Baden
Even if youβre not into gambling, you have to check out Casino Baden-Baden. Itβs one of the most beautiful casinos in Europe β all chandeliers, gold accents, and that old-world glamour that makes you feel like royalty.
Outside Baden Baden Casino
A few quick tips:
Dress Code: Jackets required for men (you can rent one for β¬10).
Entrance Fee: β¬5 for the main gaming hall; passport required for ID.
Slots Area: Free entry and more casual.
Slot Machine in the Casino, Baden Baden
We tried our luck on the slots and actually won β¬65 β not bad for beginners!
Afterwards, we took a stroll through the casino gardens, which look stunning when lit up at night.
D A Y 2 I N B A D E N B A D E N : Mountains, Cake & Thermal Bliss
Morning: Up the Merkur Mountain
View of Baden-Baden from the Merkur Funicular Railway
We kicked off the day with some adventure and took a bus to the Merkur Funicular Railway.
The short ride took us up to Merkur Mountain, Baden-Badenβs highest point, where we found panoramic views of the Black Forest that honestly took our breath away.
Outside Merkur Mountain Observation Tower
We climbed higher up the Merkur Mountain Observation Tower and were rewarded with a breathtaking 360Β° panorama of the Black Forest, nearby towns, and distant mountain peaks.
View from Merkur Mountain Observation Tower
We packed a picnic and found a quiet spot to take it all in.
There are tons of trails at the top β from short scenic walks to longer hikes like the Panoramaweg Trail, which circles the town.
We even spotted a few paragliders floating over the treetops.
Beginning of Panoramaweg Trail
Afternoon: Black Forest Cake & Caracalla Spa
After all that walking, it was time for dessert β the legendary Black Forest cake.
Blackforest Cake and Pistachio Ice Cream
We stopped at a local cafΓ© for a slice and quickly realized that the authentic version is way boozier than what weβd tried elsewhere.
It was rich, bold, and surprisingly strong! We followed it up with some pistachio gelato as a sweet palate cleanser.
Inside Caracalla Spa
Then we headed to Caracalla Spa, and wow β total bliss.
We spent the afternoon floating between the warm indoor and outdoor pools, watching the hills roll by in the distance. Every bit of tension melted away.
π‘ Tip: If you want a massage, book ahead β the reservation office closes at 5 PM sharp.
Lichtentaler Allee, lined with graceful trees
Evening: Dinner
For our final night, we had dinner at Lifestyle, a relaxed Italian restaurant just outside Caracalla Spa.
Seafood Pasta
The seafood pasta was perfection β fresh, garlicky, and exactly what we needed. We even grabbed a pizza to go for a late-night snack.
Other spots we loved or would recommend:
LΓΆwenbrΓ€u Baden-Baden: Classic German fare in a cozy, traditional setting.
La Gondola: A romantic Italian place with great pasta and wine.
A street in Baden Baden
Why We Fell in Love with Baden-Baden
We visited in July β peak travel season β and were surprised by how calm Baden-Baden felt. There were tourists, sure, but none of those overwhelming crowds or busloads of tour groups. Itβs peaceful, charming, and feels like a hidden gem despite its luxury reputation.
Whether we were hiking, soaking in thermal pools, or strolling through flower-filled parks, Baden-Baden made time slow down in the best possible way.
Two days left us completely recharged and already planning our return β next time for three days, and yes, weβll definitely rent a car.
So if youβre exploring the Black Forest or just passing through southern Germany, donβt skip Baden-Baden.
One of the Paintings in Trinkhalle (Pump Room)
H I G H L I G H T S & E S S E N T I A L S
π Destination: Baden-Baden, Germany
A historic spa town at the edge of the Black Forest β thermal baths, scenic parks, charming Old Town streets, and a glamorous casino.
π Getting There
By Train: Frankfurt β Baden-Baden, ~2 hours, β¬25β30 one-way; taxi (~β¬30) or bus (β¬6 day pass) to city center
By Car: Scenic Black Forest drives, flexible for hikes and nearby villages
ποΈ What We Did
Morning soak at Caracalla Spa
Funicular ride up Merkur Mountain for panoramic views
Walks along Lichtentaler Allee & GΓΆnneranlage Rose Garden
Sampled authentic Black Forest cake
Peeked into Casino Baden-Baden for old-world glamour
π° Total Cost for the Day: β¬150β200 per person (spa, transport, food/snacks only)
π‘ Travel Tips
Book spa treatments early (reservations close at 5 PM)
Pack swimsuit + comfy shoes
Stay 2β3 days for a relaxed pace
Casino is friendly to casual visitors β no pressure to gamble